See Volos Twice
Author: Faris Nejad
Volos specializes in the Tsipouro. Is it a cocktail? Is it a ,
spirit? Is it a wine? After the first couple of them you
won't even care, says Faris who has chosen Volos as his home town. He should
know - he's an expert in the subject. So he warns:
Prepare to see double after you've had a few.
For all these years you thought Greece was
about sitting by the pool with a glass of Pina
Colada: well, now take another look! In Volos,
you will be introduced to the real Greece at the
Tispouradlko, swigging down Tsipouro. And don't
you worry about the pronunciation, after a few of
these tiny bottles we all sound the same. The
waiter will work it out and before you know it,
there comes another little bottle accompanied by
an increasingly unfamiliar snack that you did not
order but tastes wonderful. These snacks are
often displayed raw in a glass fridge and come
with every drink, the more you order the better
they get. Or at least that's how it feels at the time.
You simply can't come to Volos and not visit one
of the numerous Tsipouradikos spread around the
town specially around the harbor. They are the
centre of social life in Volos and all roads end at
one or another Tsipouradiko. The simple and very
basic furnishing and decoration in these no fuss
cafe -looking places are so welcoming and
the locals feel completely relaxed and very much
at home in them.
In the summer you usually end up in a small uncomfortable (during the first two drinks only) chair by the side walk or a narrow alley with passers by maneuvering to get by. If you are lucky you find a table on the busy harbor next to the water. When it is cold (yes, it does get cold here) you end up in a smoke-filled room with everyone shouting, laughing and having lots of fun. The decor? It usually consists of a large painting of a fishing boat or a light house straight from a preschool drawing class. Or you might find a few old black and white pictures of the days gone by. Alcohol and nostalgia go very well together. Perfect partners, really.
You are not seeing double yet, but just in case
you forget who you are or who you are with,
hanging on the wall near the ceiling there is
usually a giant mirror at an angle which allows a
bird's eye view of all the tables around you.
Looking into the mirror you can even count the
number of bottles each table has ordered
without attracting much attention. No, the
mirror is not lying, there are usually, 10, 12, maybe
20 bottles on a table for two. Empty Tsipouro
bottles are never collected from the table until
you ask and pay for the bill. Not- finding any room
on the tables the busy waiters usually hand the
small plates of the snacks to the happy client
who will then have the task of finding a room for
the plate. But is he going to manage? Tsipouro
drinking is truly a spectators sport in Volos. Keep
your eyes on that mirror.
Colorless Tsipouro is in fact the local version
of Ouzo, distilled from grape skins or from
Macedonian grapes, flavored with aniseed. It is
served in small bottles not taller than half a pencil
and drunk straight, on the rocks or with a bit of
water. Adding water causes it to turn a milky
white color, a reaction caused by the aniseed oil
dispersing itself in minute droplets.
Knowing what is a good Tispouro is a great
point of conversation and locals take great pride in
their topical knowledge. Of course there are
Tispouro tasting classes every day, every hour at
every Tsipouradkio in town. And since 'Tsipouros R
Us' has not been invented yet, each Tsipouradiko
has its own 'house' Tsipouro which is carefully
poured in these small bottles. A Voliotis (A person
from Volos) takes great pride in taking you to their
favorite one; you get the chance to chose next
time. This provides a great excuse for the next time
that is not to say there is a shortage of excuses
around to down the drink. In Volos you go to the
Tsipouradiko if you pass your test, you go to one if
you meet someone, you go to one if you finalize a
good business transaction, you go to one if you are
excited, if you are bored, if you find a job, if you lose
a job (probably drinking more on the last occasion).
You meet people from all walks of life sitting at the
tables from white bearded priests to policemen, doctors, laborers and fishermen.
The Tsipouradikas around the courthouse are
packed with solicitors and judges, often accompanied by the plaintiffs and the defendants all at the same table! The argument this time is about who
pays for the bill.
Each drink with the chaser costs about 2.50
Euros (£1.70) and your bill is determined by the
number of bottles on your table at the end. If you
don't like the aniseed taste you can order beer,
wine or a simple but delicious main meal for about
8 Euros (£5.60) including the drink. Try any of the
Tsibourakios on the harbor or in the narrow alleys behind. Next time you choose, see you in the mirror. Twice. Steen Ya Sas.