Trikeri
The hidden island paradise and a natural prison to escape into.
Author: Faris Nejad
The tiny island of Trikeri or Palio(old) Trikeri is situated in the Pagasitikos Gulf in Eastern central Greece and is surrounded by the Pelion Peninsular. On the map it appears as if the peninsular and part of the mainland are hugging the island in their arms and protecting it from the Aegean Sea. Trikeri is on its own and it does not belong to any group of Greek islands and in fact nothing or little is mentioned about it in the tourist books. It is not only un-spoilt but also largely undiscovered. Trikeri Island is a green gem served in a blue calm gulf decorated with an antique golden monastery in the centre and ornamented by uninhabited islets around her. Numerous turquoise beaches surround the island, which is covered with ancient olive groves on a hilly terrain with magnificent views of the scattered uninhabited islets, Mount Pelion and the tranquil sea.
Not more than 20 families live on the island permanently but the population grows in the summer months and in peak season you may be confronted by as many as two to three families on a single long stretched sandy beach. Well, as your parents always said: You will have to learn to share.
There are two seafront taverns on the island, both on
the main harbor providing fresh fish and the limited
socialization the island can offer. A few rooms to let
provide ample accommodation for the visitors. There is
even a mini-market in the harbor, which does not have
underground parking for clients. Since no cars are
allowed on the island anyway, this does not seem to be
a problem for the few shoppers. All transportation is
done by 4-legged transport consisting of donkeys, mules
and horses. Even household rubbish is collected by a
chain of mules, which roam around the island and are
employed by the municipality.
The large monastery on the island is a wonderful and peaceful monument worth spending hours in. The well groomed, enclosed garden provides a sense of peace and sanctity. There is a world of beauty in the carefully arranged mosaics of the surrounding floors by the main church. The church is decorated lavishly inside with golden religious icons and some antique Creek Orthodox artifacts. The monastery is situated on one of the highest points of the island in a dominant position. It can be seen from almost every corner of this approximately 5 square kilometer island with a few small chapels scattered around.
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Trikeri provides one of the best spots in the Aegean for
boating activities. In fact the eastern shores of the island
protected by Pelion's southern tip, boast some of the
best areas for sailing boat anchorages in the entire
Mediterranean. There are many isolated coasts around
the island, which are ideal for day trips, and the
numerous uninhabited islets around the gulf provide the
most unique private and exclusive playground for the
sea enthusiasts. One of these islets closer to Pelion
Mountain homes a forgotten monastery, which is very
much worth exploring. On another islet, towards the
sunset on the horizon, the only permanent residents are
a few wild goats roaming around the island freely.
Trikeri is also an ideal base to explore the Pagasitikos'
abundance of seaside hamlets, coastal beaches
and of course the quaint port city of Volos. The
charming sea resort village of Milina with numerous
Tavernas, some nightlife and general market is only
about 20 minutes by boat. The views of some of Mount
Pelion's picturesque villages from the sea are
breathtaking and should not be missed. The northern
tip of the island of Evia with its thermal baths and the
popular and touristy island of Skiathos are just around
the corner beyond the gulf's mouth.
Trikeri is covered with olive groves all the way down to
the sandy beaches. The island is a bird sanctuary and
hunting is strictly forbidden. That is why scores of wild
pheasants roam around the island quite freely, flying
from one tree to another. Most of the walks around the
island are clearly marked and the tranquil atmosphere
fills one with a strong sense of confidence in venturing
out to the furthest corners of the land. You would feel
so much at home that the fear of getting lost is none
existent since the place where you have got lost, might
be what you have been looking for all your life. This, of
course, is not true about the several thousand female
political prisoners who where detained on the island in
the years following the civil war in 1949.
The isolation and difficulty of escaping, from the island
made Trikeri an ideal place to keep women prisoners.
The surviving ladies from those days have now formed
a group who visit the island every year, have a swim,
eat some barbecued fresh fish and contemplate the
ironies of life on a natural prison to which many now
wish to escape into.
Fortunately, for those who wish to escape to the island.
the price of the limited plots and houses available are
relatively low in comparison to other Creek islands but
unfortunately, there is not a lot available. The general
feeling amongst the few landowners who mostly live
away from the island and visit occasionally for pleasure
is that if you have anything on the island, keep it.
The down side for the island is that , Trikeri will probably have to go
through the tourist boom years in Europe without ever
having an airport, a golf course, hotels with swimming
pools, taxis, bingo halls, nightclubs, casinos, Taiwanese
art craft, a decent seaside amusement park and most
importantly all –inclusive package holidays.
Lucky little island!